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  • 9 Unmissable Day Trips from Mexico City

    I have visited Mexico City over 10 times during the past decade and these are some of my favourite day trips: Teotihuacán Pyramids Tepoztlán Magical Town Malinalco Magical Town Taxco Magical Town Tula de Allende Grutas de Tolantongo Tlalpujahua Magical Town Puebla & Cholula Bernal Teotihuacán Pyramids Distance from Mexico City : 50km, ( 1-1.5 drive) Entry fee: 95 pesos How to get there: Take a bus from Central de Autobuses del Norte station, drive or catch an uber Things to do in Teotihuacán: This is a must-do day trip for all first time visitors! Teotihuacán means "the place where gods were created" and it was built between the 1st and 7th centuries A.D.(more than a 1,000 years before the arrival of the Aztecs). It's a very large archaeological site and you need at least 2-4hrs to really appreciate its vastness, including the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon (you are not allowed to climb either of them anymore). Hot tip: Join an early morning hot air balloon flight over Teotihuacán for first-class views! Where to eat: La Gruta - a very unique dining experience in a cave! Tepoztlán Magical Town Distance from Mexico City: 82km (1.5hr drive) Entry fee: FREE How to get there: Tepoztlán is one of the many pueblos   mágicos (magical towns), located south of Mexico City and is a very popular weekend destination because of its close distance to the capital. You can catch a bus from Mexico City's southern bus terminal (Taxqueña), or drive if you have a car. Note: there is another magical town called Tepozotlán, located north of Mexico City, so do not confuse the two! We visited Tepoztlán on a Sunday and it was buzzing with day trippers and the whole town was like a party! If you prefer a quieter experience, then maybe visiting on a weekday would be a better option. Things to do in Tepoztlán: Wander the streets of this pretty town and try some of the local street food, such as nieves (shaved ice) or itacate (triangular shape thick corn tortilla, similar to a sope). On the weekend you can also visit a temazcal, a pre-hispanic type of sauna meant to aid with spiritual and physical cleansing and release of toxins. The must-do activity in Tepoztlán, however, is the vigorous hike up the Tepozteco pyramid. This hike is not long, but it’s no joke. It took us about 45mins up and 45mins down with a small stop at the top of the pyramid, but the trail basically consists of steps, steps, and more steps, so it’s pretty challenging, even if you are fairly fit. Bring lots of water and start early before it gets too hot and crowded! Malinalco Magical Town Distance from Mexico City: 100kms (2-2.5hr drive) Entry fee: FREE (Pyramid/Zona Archeológica 80 pesos) How to get there: Google maps showed a 2hr drive from Mexico city, but the roads were in a really poor state, so it took us much longer. There is a bus from Terminal Poniente (Observatorio) ( Autotransportes Flecha Roja bus company), but double check the departure schedule. Things to do in Malinalco: Malinalco is another pueblo mágico close to Mexico City, but it’s a little bit more off-the-beaten track. The roads in this region are shocking, so be ready for a bumpy ride to get there, but it’s all worth it. We visited on a weekday and it was nice and quiet. You can stroll around the town centre, visit the local markets, try some of the local restaurants, and definitely visit the pyramid. The walk up the pyramid is much easier than the hike up Tepozteco and you get lovely panoramic views from the top. The area was inhabited by the Mexicas when the Aztecs conquered it in 1470 and built the temples for the Sun God and God of Wars. Its main use was for initiation rituals and sacrifices of the Aztec military elite, the Eagle and Jaguar warriors. It is one of the best pre-served Aztec sites and definitely worth the visit. Taxco de Alarcón Distance from Mexico City: 178km (2.5 hour drive) Entry fee: FREE How to get there: Drive from Mexico City or catch a bus from Mexico City's southern bus terminal (Taxqueña), which takes about 3 hours, so you might want to consider staying overnight. Taxco is one of my favourite magical towns, not only because I love silver and Taxco is the "Silver Capital" of Mexico, but it is also very picturesque. Things to do in Taxco: Soak in the atmosphere of the old town and wander around the cobbled streets, have a drink at one of the rooftop bars across from the Cathedral or drive up to the Cristo Monumental lookout for stunning views. You can also try one of the typical dishes- pozole. The Taxco version of this soup is served with pork cracklings. The main activity to keep you busy all day is shopping for silver jewellery! If you like silver, Taxco will be like paradise for you-from handcrafted silver jewellery to mass-produced pieces, you will a piece (or three) to your liking, all at very reasonable prices. Fun fact: The silver-making industry was reinvigorated by an American, William Spratling, who opened a silver workshop in Taxco in 1929. Tula de Allende Distance from Mexico City: 85km (1.5-2hr drive) Entry fee: 90 pesos How to get there: Drive, or take the bus from Mexico City's Terminal Norte to Tula de Allende, and then a taxi. Things to do in Tula de Allende: The main attraction in the area is the archeological site of ancient Tula. Tula was the centre of the Toltec Empire and reached the height of its power from the 10th to the 12th century, after the fall of Teotihuacán and before the establishment of Tenochtitlán (Today's Mexico City). The walk through the archeological site is very pleasant and you can admire some of Mexico's finest succulent plants along the way. Once you get to the remains of the main pyramid, you can walk up to admire the Atlantes de Tula, hand-crafted stone statues that represent Toltec warriors. Tula de Allende itself feel like a rather plain provincial town, so there really isn't much to do besides visiting the archeological site. Hot tip:  I recommend combining the visit to Tula de Allende with Grutas de Tolantongo  and make it an overnight trip. Grutas de Tolantongo Distance from Mexico City : 200km (3.5-4hr drive) Entry fee: 200 pesos pp+ 30 pesos for parking How to get there: This stunning hot springs paradise is one of my favourite places in Mexico and although doable as a day trip, I would recommend staying overnight as the drive from Mexico city is close to 4hrs long (depending on traffic). You can get to Tolantongo by public transport by taking a bus from Mexico city to Ixmiquilpan and then a microbus ( colectivo ) to Grutas Tolantongo. You would then need to take a shuttle inside the park to get around the different attractions. Driving is a better option as you have the freedom to stop wherever you like for however long you like. If you are doing an overnight trip, you can stay inside the park (note that no advanced bookings are accepted and that you will need to pay the park entrance fee for 2 days) or in the nearby towns of Ixmiquilpan or Tasquillo (which is what we did). It is a good idea to arrive as early as possible (the ticket office opens at 7am and most attractions open at 8am) and avoid weekends and public holidays for the best experience. Alternatively, you can take an organised day tour from Mexico City. Things to do in Tolantongo Grutas de Tolantongo is essentially a natural park run by a local community cooperative that offers several world-class hot spring areas. Although it's not a luxury resort, the natural beauty of this place is simply breathtaking. You can visit the following places in the Tolantongo Park: Pozas termales (Thermal pools) Pozas Termales (Thermal Pools) This was definitely a highlight for me as it looks as beautiful in reality as it does on Instagram! Since we got there early on a Friday, we had a few of the pools all to ourselves and were really able to relax (and take some great pics:). These man-made pools use the natural hot spring water and you can enjoy the stunning views while soaking in one of them. The water was warm, not hot, which was perfect for me as the outside temperature was close to 30 ° C. Thermal River Tolantongo Thermal River Next, we visited Tolantongo River, which was even more stunningly blue than the thermal pools! This natural hot spring river maintains a pleasantly warm temperature, allowing you to soak here to your heart's content! Waterfall, Tunnel and the Cave The last place we visited was the famous tunnel and cave. To enter the cave, you need to walk through a waterfall, which consists of two sections: one with warm hot spring water and another with refreshingly cold fresh water. Once inside the cave, there is another small thermal waterfall, which creates a kind of sauna effect. Although this place was quite crowded by the time we arrived (a bit before 11 am), it was still such a unique experience. Other activities If you have the time and are feeling adventures, there is also a zip line in the park and plenty of hiking options. There are also many restaurants inside the park (bring enough cash) and a few little shops where you can buy refreshments. Although still a bit off the beaten track, Grutas Tolantongo is quickly becoming an internationally known tourist attraction, so come visit soon before it gets too crowded! Tlalpujahua Distance from Mexico City: 1685km (2.5-3hr drive) Entry fee: Free How to get there: Drive or take a bus from Mexico City's Terminal Poniente (Observatorio). Parroquia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen Another magical town you can visit on a day trip, but even better as a part of a multi-day trip to Michoacán, is a former gold mining town Tlapujahua. Now that there is no more mining, the town has become somewhat famous for Christmas spheres and ornaments. You can wonder around the town (be prepared for steep hills!), visit a nearby mine and/or another mining town, El Oro (meaning gold). Hot Tip: Combine your trip to Tlalpujahua with a stop at one of the Monarca butterfly sanctuaries , where you can witness millions of butterflies that migrate from Canada to Mexico annually between November and February to avoid the colder months. Puebla & Cholula Distance from Mexico City: 134km (approx. 2.5-3hr drive) How to get there: Drive or catch a bus from Mexico City's Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente (TAPO) bus station. Hot tip: Stay overnight and visit some of the nearby pueblos   mágicos. While it's possible to visit Puebla, the fourth largest city in Mexico, on a day trip, it is advisable to spend several days there to fully enjoy its architectural and culinary treasures. Puebla, Mexico, is a lively city steeped in history and culture and is renowned for its Talavera pottery and azulejos tiles, which decorate many of its structures with detailed and colourful patterns. The city is also the birthplace of the iconic Mexican dish mole poblano, a rich and complex sauce made with a variety of spices, often served over chicken. You can try different kinds of mole, such as mole Poblano (made with chocolate and spices), mole negro (the traditional black mole), mole verde (green mole), mole pipian (made primarily with pumpkin seeds). San Pedro Cholula is a magical town located approximately 10 km from Puebla, often known as 'the city of churches', boasting a total of 365 churches—one for each day of the year! Among these is the Church of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, which is built on top of a pyramid in Cholula, allowing you enjoy stunning views of the volcano Popocatepetl in the backdrop. Bernal Distance from Mexico City : 230km (3-3.5 hr drive) How to get there: The best way is to drive or take a day tour from Mexico City. Things to do in Bernal: Bernal is another magical town north of Mexico City. It is located in the heart of Querétaro’s cheese and wine region and in recent year has become a popular weekend getwaway. The wine industry is still very new in this region, but there is some really nice wine around! I recommend Donato winery for wine tasting and/or a nice lunch with a vineyard view. Hot tip: Stay overnight so you can enjoy one of the many rooftop bars with a view of Peña de Bernal. Peña de Bernal is the third tallest monolith in the world and if you are up for it, you can hike up, or at least enjoy the pretty views from pretty much anywhere around town.

  • A guide to Mexican street food- all gluten-free!

    Sopes Gorditas Tlacoyos Huaraches Quesadillas Tostadas Mexican street food Mexico is a paradise for gluten-free travellers! Unless you are travelling in the north of the country, where wheat flour tortillas are more common, it’s corn all the way! Apart from the infinite number of tacos, there is a line of street food sometimes referred to as  garnachas  or antojitos  that offers a range of yummy gluten-free snacks.  Sopes, gorditas, tlacoyos, and huaraches are all made from corn dough (called  masa ), thicker than your usual  tortilla , but vary in size, shape, fillings and toppings. Let's take a deep dive into Mexican street food and clear up any mix-ups between these tasty treats.  Sopes A thick, round-shape corn dough base with pinched edges to hold the toppings. Lightly fried and usually topped with beans, cheese, sour cream, iceberg lettuce and salsa (green or red). Sope topped with beans, lettuce and cheese Gorditas Similar round shape to sopes, but the filling is inside the dough! Deep-fried and filled with meat ( in Mexico City, usually with chicharrón- pork belly), beans, lettuce, cheese and salsa, gorditas are usually made from white corn. However, you can also find blue corn gorditas in some places, such as Peña de Bernal. Tlacoyos Tlacoyos are oval-shaped, thick masa cakes, often made of blue corn, grilled and stuffed with beans or cheese ( requesón ). They are usually topped with  nopales  (cactus), salsa, and cheese. Huaraches Named after pre-hispanic sandals, these large, shoe-shaped delicacies are fried or grilled, stuffed with beans and usually topped cheese and onion, meat or eggs and salsas. Quesadillas Mexican street-style quesadillas are almost always made with corn tortillas, which makes them a safe gluten-free choice. Quesadilla Note: in some restaurants, and especially in northern Mexico, flour tortillas are used, so it’s better to double checks. Quesadillas can be fried and come with a variety of fillings- cheese (although you can also get quesadillas without cheese!), huitlacoche (corn fungus) to flor de calabaza (squash blossoms), mushrooms, chicken, etc. Qusadillas on Xochimilco canal Tostadas Tostadas are crispy corn tortillas topped with an infinite variety of meat, seafood, or simply beans and cheese. Tostada topped with beans, lettuce, cactus and cheese Seafood tostadas

  • San Blas Island Paradise, Panama

    Ever dreamt of island paradise off-the-grid where you can laze around in a hammock all day? San Blas Islands in Panama might be just the place! I had read some very mixed reviews about these islands, and an email from the travel agency we booked with warning us of all the horrible things that we might encounter, from blood-sucking sand flies to dirty sheets to lack of electricity, and so on… But I also heard from other travellers how beautiful and pristine these islands were, so I took the risk and booked an overnight tour to Guasirdup island, and I’m so glad I did! About San Blas (Kuna Yala) Islands The archipelago consists of 365 islands, 51 inhabited ones and the rest used for tourism. However, there is no mass tourism- no hotels, no resorts and the islands are still very much off-the-beaten-track. The islands are owned by an autonomous indigenous community, Kuna Yala, with its own language, culture, customs and laws. In fact, to enter the area, passports are required and tourists need to pay a $20 island tax. Only Kuna Yala people can work on these islands and all the accommodation is very simple, run by the local community. Getting there I usually avoid organised tours whenever possible, but there really aren’t many other options when it comes to visiting these remote islands. So we booked one of the tours that included a transfer from Panama city to the port (about 2.5-3hrs on the brand new sealed road (don’t worry about the horror stories of a bumpy unsealed road, that’s all a story of the past!), a boat ride to the islands, an island hopping tour, 1 night accommodation and 4 meals (lunch, dinner, breakfast and lunch). The total came to around $250 per person, which initially seemed expensive to me, but now I realise the value and believe it's completely justified! The islands are very remote, requiring all supplies to be transported from the mainland. I can't even imagine the effort involved in washing sheets without a washing machine! (Unless they send them back to the mainland, but I'm not sure if they do!) Guasirdup Island What to expect Everything exceeded expectations (which were set very low by the terrible reviews), but I can only comment on our island, Guasirdup, which features lovely accommodations in overwater cabins. Simple accommodation with shared bathroom facilities (there was fresh water, though, despite the reviews saying the showers have salt water). Delicious fresh meals: fish, seafood and sometimes chicken options with rice, patacones (plantain chips) or chips- all very delicious! No wifi (but our phone reception seemed to work on the island). Limited electricity, but our cabin had lights, a fan and a power outlet where we could charge our phones (again, this might not be true for other islands). Guasirdup island has only 3 over-water cabins, so it’s very private! There are no shops, so bring your own snacks and drinks, although they did provide soft drinks and beer (at extra cost) with meals. Some of the bigger islands we visited during the island hopping had more food & drink options, including cocktails. Make sure you bring cash. Bring your own towels and plenty of sunscreen! Fresh seafood for lunch and dinner Our island-hopping tour included a visit to Gagandup (Grassland Island) for lunch, Isla Perro Chico-Barco Hundido for a swim and Piscinas Naturales (Natural Swimming Pool), an absolutely stunning swimming spot in the sea.

  • How to Plan the Perfect 4-Day Getaway at Caye Caulker, Belize

    Ready for a tropical adventure? Belize has been on my radar for quite some time, being Mexico's neighbour. It seemed very close, yet far away at the same time! This post is a summary of our short 4-day getaway on the beautiful Caye Caulker in Belize with tips on how to get there and what to do. Belize is nestled between Mexico, Guatemala and the Caribbean Sea and its geographical location really reflects the local culture, which is a mix of Central American with Mayan heritage and influences from the English-speaking Caribbean. You can see this unique blend of cultures reflected in the languages spoken in Belize, the food and the people. When to Go The best time to visit Belize is during the dry season, between December to May, although I'd imagine that December-January would be extremely busy. We visited at the end of May, the very end of the dry season, and felt that this was the perfect time to visit as it wasn't overcrowded at all. Getting There Instead of trying to fit in too much, we decided to just visit Caye Caulker on this short 4-day getaway. We took the ferry from Chetumal for $77 USD, which took about 3 hours and 15 mins and was bit bumpy! The ferry first stops as San Pedro on Ambergris Caye to clear customs and then continues for another 45mins or so to Caye Caulker. We chose Caye Caulker over Ambergris as it is supposed to be more laid-back and less developed. Indeed, most people got off the ferry at San Pedro and only 4 of us continues on to Caye Caulker! On the way back, we took the ferry to Belize City (only 45mins and much more comfortable and affordable at 33 BZD (about $16 USD when bought at the ferry terminal, $21 USD when bought online) followed by a shuttle to Guatemala (but you can also take land transport back to Mexico). Here is a summary of the different modes of transport: Route Chetumal- Caye Caulker by Ferry Chetumal - Belize City by land + Ferry to Caye Caulker Price 77 USD 15-20 USD +21 USD Duration 3 hrs 15 mins Ferry departs at 3:30pm 5 hrs + 45mins Tips https://belizewatertaxi.com/ another option (more $$$, departs every other day at 10am) is https://www.sanpedrowatertaxi.com/ Multiple buses and shuttle buses departing from Chetumal. Water taxi from Belize City with multiple daily departures: https://belizewatertaxi.com/ Caye Caulker Caye Caulker really seems like true tropical paradise! Imagine swaying palm trees, crystal-clear waters, and the perfect blend of relaxation and excitement. It is touristy, but not overwhelmingly so, and you can see both locals and tourists enjoying the slow island life. 'Go Slow' is the island's motto, after all. There are no paved roads and therefore no cars, only golf carts and bicycles (the perfect way to get around). What to Do Ride a bicycle around the island: Many hotels and airbnbs offer free bicycles, or you can rent one and ride around the island. The island is very small, so you can easily get from one end to the other in 30 mins. Swim at the Split: The 1961 hurricane literally split the island into two, creating a lovely swimming spot now known as The Split. You can swim, relax, or have a drink at one of the water bars and go slow all day. Explore the North Side: Take the little Split-to-Split ferry to explore the north side of the island, which is a lot less developed. We rode our bikes all the way to Bliss Beach , a lovely beach bar/club, but if it's very hot, so you could take a ferry straight there instead. Snorkelling and Diving : This is one of the top things to do in Caye Caulker! We did a half-day snorkelling tour ($45 USD), but the options are infinite! Explore the mesmerising underwater world of the Belize Barrier Reef, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, swim with nurse sharks, tropical fish and stingrays. Feed the Rays : Every day aro und 4 pm you can watch the feeding of stingrays at Iguana Reef Inn for free. This was one of our favourite experiences! The stingrays gather in the shallow water and swim right up to the shore. You can pat them or just watch them gently glide over your feet. This is also a great spot to watch the sunset, with a cocktail in your hand while chilling in a swing or hammock in the water. Watch the sunset: Watch the sunset at Iguana Reef Inn or Pelican Sunset Bar (also great for their ceviche) for great views and a Happy Hour cocktails! Taste Local Delicacies: We loved the food in Caye Caulker! From fresh grilled snapper to ceviche to delicious coconut curries, this was one of our favourite cuisines in Central America. Other tips US dollars are widely accepted and many (but not all) places accept credit cards. There are also a couple of ATMs on the island. There are a few supermarkets where you can buy almost anything you need if you are self-catering like we did. While 4 days was just the perfect amount of time for us to be able to explore and relax, you could stay for just 3 days, or 2 weeks 'going slow' and enjoying the tropical paradise!

  • 5 Reasons to Experience Salsa Immersion at Feria de Cali, the Salsa Capital of the World

    La Feria de Cali (The Cali Fair) is an annual event held in Cali, Colombia, from December 25 to December 30. If you are a salsa lover or enthusiast, you should experience it at least once in your lifetime! We visited the Feria in 2022 and it was one of our best dance travel trips. Here are the 5 reasons why: 1. Cali is not a tourist trap 2. Cali is the Salsa Capital of the World 3. Attend Feria de Cali Events 4. See Big Salsa Bands at Intimate Venues 5. Endless Entertainment 1. Cali is not a tourist trap Cali is not a major tourist destination, so you can have a real and authentic experience here. It’s not the most beautiful city in the world, but there is something about its raw energy that is hard to find elsewhere. What Cali lacks in monuments and tourist hotspots, it makes up for in authentic experiences: While walking the streets of Cali, you can marvel at some of the old-world street life such as the sugarcane juice vendors, or a guy writing poems on demand! People are very friendly and never did we feel like someone was trying to rip us off or take advantage of us in any way. A note on safety: While it's not recommended to walk around at night or flash your mobile phone on the street, we never felt that it was any more dangerous than other cities in Latin America. The culture of Cali is very rich, with the second largest population of African descent in South America (after Salvador, Brazil). You can try some authentic street food- from skewers, to arepas and corn empanadas to exotic fresh fruit and fruit drinks. 2. Cali is the Salsa Capital of the World Salsa didn't originate in Cali, so why is the city often referred to as the Salsa Capital of the World? Salsa first arrived in Cali in the 1960's and 70's in the form of LP discs brought by ships to Buenaventura on the Pacific Coast and it quickly gained popularity throughout the city. In the 1980's, local salsa bands such as Grupo Niche and Guayacán Orquesta emerged, both of which have become world salsa icons. You can still hear them live at the annual Feria de Cali. Unlike other Colombian cities, where styles like reggaeton have become more popular, Cali still lives and breathes salsa, with innumerable salsa clubs and schools to choose from. The Cali style of salsa, internationally known as Colombian Salsa, features intricate footwork performed at high speed. Despite having this unique style, we felt that all styles of salsa are welcome in Cali, embodying the true sense of the word salsa (blend). 3. Attend Feria de Cali Events There are soo many different events at the Feria de Cali that we found it hard to decide which ones to attend! We went to these two official events, but there are many more: Salsódromo: 25th December The iconic salsa parade opens the festival, with Cali salsa schools and salsa bands showcasing their talents. Some sections of the parade are free, while others are ticketed. Although we went to one of the free sections, we were still able to soak in the electric atmosphere. Below is a video of the iconic Guayacán Orquesta on a float: Súper concierto: 27th December This huge concert at the Olympic Stadium Pascual Guerrero took place from 8:00 p.m. a 3:00 a.m. (although we only stayed till 1am) , featuring huge salsa icons such as Victor Manuelle, El Gran Combo and Guayacán Orquesta, among others. In 2023, the organisers decided to go back to the roots and only include salsa artists. However, in previous years, the festival featured other Latin styles and we were lucky that 2022 was headlined by Maluma, the most popular Colombian artist at the time. Seeing Maluma in his homeland was pretty amazing as the whole stadium pretty much knew all of his songs! 4. See Big Salsa Bands at intimate venues While there are plenty of official events as part of the Feria, there are also numerous concerts, street parties and other salsa events during the Feria de Cali week. Many of the big artists participating in the Feria also perform at smaller venues during the festival week, so you can see a different live salsa band every night. We were fortunate to experience Los Van Van in a more intimate setting at one of the festival tents. The incredible atmosphere was almost as amazing as seeing the band itself. 5. Endless Entertainment By now you might have guessed that the main problem you are going to have at the Feria de Cali is choosing which events to attend! Beyond the official events, there are countless concerts, street parties, and other salsa events throughout the week. The city's vibrant nightlife really comes alive during the Feria, offering endless entertainment options. Here are some other salsa experiences you can't miss: La Topa Tolondra- a Cali institution where you can show off your social dance skills, or marvel at those of others. There was a long line when we went, so make sure you get in early. Museo de la Salsa- a cute little museum showcasing famous salsa artists. The entertaining guide also made the experience extra special. One week in Cali wasn't really enough to explore all the salsa adventures the city has to offer, but the Feria de Cali provided a peek into the vibrant culture and a taste of the city's rich salsa culture. If you have a chance to visit the Salsa Capital of the World during the Feria de Cali, don't miss it!

  • Exploring Costa Rica: 10 Days in Search of Nature and Relaxation

    Day 1: Drive from San Jose International Airport to Quepos Our trip didn't exactly have a relaxing start when we arrived at the car rental company only to find out that most rental car companies in Costa Rica require a physical credit card (and mine got hacked in Brazil, so I only have a digital one). Eventually, we were able to rent a car with Thrifty, who accepted either a debit card or a digital credit card. So, we were off, just with a 2-hour delay! This also meant that we had to stop in Jaco, about an hour before our final destination, to teach an online class since we wouldn't be able to make it to our accommodation on time. All good, such are the adventures of digital nomad life! Day 2: Manuel Antonio National Park Today’s plan was to explore Manuel Antonio National Park . With the entry (without a guide) costing $18 USD and our tight budget, we decided to explore the park without a guide. The park is famous for its diverse fauna, especially the quintessential Costa Rican sloth. As soon as we entered the park and saw groups of people with guides and binoculars, we were certain we wouldn’t be able to spot a single animal. But after walking for about 20 minutes, the universe aligned and granted us a sloth encounter! We saw a group of people staring up at a tree. And there he was! The famously slow and cute sloth climbing up a tree. We felt extremely lucky to have spotted one and enjoyed the rest of the morning walking through the park without the pressure of having to see anything in particular. My favourite part, however, was Manuel Antonio beach. Pristine and not crowded, a refreshing dip was exactly what we needed after the 2-hour walk through the park. Manuel Antonio National Park Day 3: Drive from Quepos to Monteverde via hot springs Finca Lindora This morning we set off on the drive to Monteverde (a 3.5-hour drive according to Google), which was quite uneventful, with the obligatory pit stop for the famous gallo pinto (a traditional breakfast consisting of rice and beans, eggs, plantains, and a corn tortilla). Just about 10 minutes from our final destination, we saw a sign for Finca Lindora Hot Springs. We thought, why not, let’s check it out! This is a local farm that offers horse riding and a visit to the hot springs. We passed on the horse riding and paid $10 USD per person for entry to the hot springs. The lady explained to us how to get to the hot springs down the hill and while it seemed simple at the time, it turned out to be much more complicated! First, the dry gravel and rocks made the path very slippery. The instructions were something like, ‘keep to the left following the path, then turn right by the trees.’ Huh, which trees? Then we saw a gate, but the arrow was pointing towards a wired fence… We tried the gate first, but then remembered the ‘keep to the left’ part and figured that you could actually open the barbed wire as a gate… After about 20 minutes of walking, we finally made it to the hot springs. Let ’s just say it was an adventurous walk in nature! But it was all worth it. The hot spring was lovely, and not too hot, which was perfect for this hot day. My skin felt really smooth after soaking in it for some 20mins or so. Hot springs Finca Lindora Day 4: Monte Verde Cloud Forest & Cascada de Murcielagos This morning we visited Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve . The reserve only allows 250 visitors at a time, which is quite nice as it doesn’t seem crowded at all. We had booked in advance ($26 USD per person) and were glad we did as it was sold out for the day. It was a lovely morning, pleasantly warm (not hot), and we explored several of the trails available in the reserve. We ended up having lunch at the onsite restaurant, which has amazing views of the greenery Monteverde Cloud Forest While the Cloud Forest was beautiful, the highlight of the day was again an unplanned stop, this time at the nearby Cataratas Murciélago waterfalls. The entry was $8 USD and after a 20-minute walk down the hill, we arrived at this lovely waterfall, and we had it all to ourselves! The water was COLD, therefore refreshing! You need water shoes or sandals that you don’t mind getting wet as the bottom is very rocky and slippery. After a refreshing swim, we headed back up. Perfect timing as we passed two groups of people heading down and it also started drizzling a little. We have been very lucky with the weather as May is the beginning of the rainy season, but so far, we have only witnessed two afternoon showers. Cataratas Murciélago Day 5: Drive from Monte Verde to Tamarindo Another 3.5-hour drive took us to Tamarindo , on the Guanacaste Pacific Coast. It got very hot again as we made our way out of the Monteverde mountain area towards Liberia and the coast. Perhaps we got used to the cooler climate of Monteverde and therefore found this heat a bit too much, so we stayed indoors until just before sunset. It was still hot then (29 °C and 80% humidity), but much more bearable. Tamarindo beach Tamarindo is a small surf town catering to international tourists. There is the paved main strip with shops (fairly expensive boutiques, surf shops, restaurants and a couple of mini supermarkets). The rest of the town consists of dirt roads and has a very laid-back feel to it. We found Tamarindo (like much of Costa Rica) expensive compared to other Latin American countries. Apart from alcohol, which is cheaper, restaurants, grocery stores and petrol all seem to have comparable prices to Australia, if not higher at times. Accommodation is still much cheaper, though. The sunset at the beach was spectacular, and although we are not into surfing, we enjoyed the chilled vibes at dusk and the atmosphere of tropical beach bars. I often wish that Australia would adopt some of these beachfront bars, but I know that will never happen! Day 6 & 7: Tamarindo The next couple of days were spent lazing around the hotel pool, trying out the local gym and yoga classes, and working in the evenings. I went to the beach for a dip at 7 am, and it was already very hot! I kind of wish I had traveled to this part of the world when I was younger and more tolerant of heat and humidity! Day 8: La Leona Waterfall and drive to La Fortuna This morning we set off just before 7am for a 20-hour drive to La Leona waterfall in the Rincon de la Vieja region. We joined a guided walk to the waterfall (that’s the only way to visit this stunning site) and this was definitely one of the highlights of the trip so far! The whole trip took about 2.5 hours as we walked through the river bed, climbed up and down rocks and little ladders, swam though the gorge along ropes to help us fight the current, and pulled up on the rope to make our way to two stunning waterfalls. This was such a fun, refreshing, and exhilarating little adventure! La Leona Waterfall We continued driving for another 3hours to La Fortuna, with a stop for delicious ceviche at Sr. Pulpo in Cañas (right next to the church). Once we reached Arenal Lake, the drive became very scenic, with views of the Arenal Volcano hiding behind the clouds. Our last stop was at the Choyin Thermal River, a free hot spring river just a 15-minute drive from La Fortuna town. We were expecting it to be crowded, but it wasn’t! (Another perk of travelling during the shoulder season.) There were plenty of little pools so we could to lie in and soak in this lovely hot spring. Day 9: La Fortuna This morning we set off early again to beat the crowds at La Fortuna Waterfalls. We arrived at 7:30am (it opens at 7am), paid $20 US each and made our way down the 500 stairs towards the waterfall. When we got there, there were only a few people around and at one point, I was the only one swimming, so it was definitely worth getting in early. After the refreshing dip and a walk back up (the 500 stairs turned out to be very manageable), we headed into La Fortuna town for a stroll and then down towards the river at El Salto (you can swing on a rope and jump into the river, for free). We didn’t jump, but had another refreshing swim before heading back to our lovely Airbnb, where we chilled and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon, enjoying the lush views. The vegetation at La Fortuna is really something else- so green and tropical. The weather slowly changed and it started raining in the afternoon, so I guess the rainy season has officially started! Day 10: Depart La Fortuna and drive to San Jose International Airport This morning we lazed around a bit more, finished packing and got ready for the drive back to the airport (2.5-3 hours, depending on traffic). So this concludes our 10-day trip around Costa Rica! My favourite part was definitely swimming in the the waterfalls, soaking in natural hot springs and enjoying the stunning nature around La Fortuna. Here are 10 Fun Facts about Costa Rica Costa Rica has no army All petrol stations are government regulated and have fixed prices Costa Rica accounts for 6% of global biodiversity 99% of Costa Rica’s Energy is renewable You can drink tap water almost everywhere in Costa Rica Gallo pinto is a traditional breakfast dish US dollars are widely accepted Costa Rica is the most expensive Central-American country It is nicknamed the 'Switzerland of Latin America' Pura Vida is the Costa Rican way of life

  • Experiencing Ramadan and Eid: A Week in Morocco

    We weren’t sure whether travelling to Morocco during Ramadan would be a good idea, so we we decided to start our 1-week trip on the last day of Ramadan, which meant we also experienced the 3-day celebrations of Eid al-Fitr that mark the end of the month of fasting in Morocco. Itinerary Day 1: Travel from Tangier to Chefchaouen We arrived at Tangier airport around midday and I was surprised how calm and organised everything was, much different from the chaotic madness I remember when I visited Morocco on a day trip from Spain many years ago! Not sure if everyone was saving energy because they were fasting, but overall, everything seemed very relaxed. We took a taxi ( petit taxi) to the bus station (100 dirhams, about 15 AUD), which was surprisingly easy and the price was fixed as per the notice board at the taxi stand. Ok the bus station didn't seem that relaxed anymore and everyone seemed impatient to get somewhere (the last day of Ramadan might be a busy time as many people are travelling to see their family for the end-of-Ramadan celebrations, Eid-al Fitr.) After standing in a chaotic queue to buy bus tickets, we were not able to get a ticket to Chefchaouen (there were no more direct buses for that day), so we got a ticket to Tetouan (about a 1.5hr bus ride) where we were supposed to change buses and buy another ticket to continue the journey to Chefchaouen. Getting on the bus was interesting as there was no queue, but everyone started pushing to get on as soon as the bus arrived. Everyone g ot a seat , so not sure why there was so much fuss. Anyways, when we got to Tetouan, we learned that all the tickets to Chefhcaouen that day were sold out, so we went for option B, which I had researched was to take a collective taxi ( grand taxi ). Although we don't speak Arabic or French and most people didn't speak English, everyone seemed to be very friendly and eager to help us, and many people in Northern Morocco also speak a bit of Spanish. There was a lot of tension at the grand taxi stand. I had heard of people getting cranky during Ramadan, but didn't expect to experience it straight away! We witnessed two verbal fights within the span of 10 minutes, one of which we were kind of the cause of! Although we were technically the next in the non-existent queue, when the taxi to Chefchaouen arrived, some ladies started pushing and getting into the taxi quickly, so it was impossible for us to get a seat. Another guy who was waiting got angry and told them to get off so that we could get our seats. Why we didn't want to be the cause of a quarrel, we though that was rather kind! The rest of the 1-hr and a bit journey was quite uneventful as we shared the taxi with a Moroccan family travelling to Chefchaouen. We couldn't really communicate with them, but one of the girls helped us get another group taxi to our hotel once we arrived in Chefchaouen. We weren't expecting to be able to find any food during the day as it was still Ramadan, and we were right. All restaurants and cafes were closed and while it's ok for foreigners and non-muslims to eat, I felt kind of bad for everyone else around me. I ended up not drinking any water all afternoon and got a headache from dehydration (and it wasn't even that hot...). I really wouldn't want to participate in Ramadan fasting all day! When we got to Chefchaouen, we found a few tourist restaurants that were open, and one of them even offered gluten-free bread (the only restaurant offering GF bread that we came across during our one week in Morocco!) Bilmos Restaurant Day 2: Chefchaouen Although Ramadan had ended, it was almost just as difficult to find food on the first day of Eid-Al-Fitr celebration as it is also a public holiday and most locals are spending time with their family. We had booked to do a cooking class at 3pm, but just as we were getting ready for our meeting point, the host messaged us asking whether we could postpone because there is a 'little problem' (aka Eid party in the kitchen we were supposed to use for the cooking class!). Sadly, we missed out on the cooking class, but found another restaurant that was open (but only with limited meal options). Check out my blog post on my gluten-free Morocco experience for a more detailed foodie guide. We spent the rest of the day getting lost in the narrow streets and alleys of the Chefchaouen medina (ancient walled city) and it being a public holiday was actually a perfect opportunity to take photos of the streets without shops and market stalls blocking the view! The atmosphere was also very different, with people enjoying their day off, kids playing on the streets and everyone wearing festive outfits. Day 3: Casablanca We set off early this morning to take the bus from CTM bus station to Casablanca. We were able to buy the tickets online for 185 MAD each (about 28AUD), and the journey took around 6 hours, with a short stop in Rabat. We then spent the afternoon/evening and the following morning exploring Casablanca, the white city. While many travel bloggers advise against visiting Casablanca, we actually enjoyed being in a less touristy place and seeing what life is like in a large, modern, Moroccan city. Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca We took the tram to get around the city centre and then walked towards Hassan II Mosque to see a beautiful sunset. The mosque was built on the coast in a truly spectacular spot and many locals were enjoying their walk along the seaside, with plenty of food vendors selling local snacks. Hassan II Mosque is the second largest mosque in Africa (after ) and it was built in 1993, although it looks ancient due to its traditional Andalusian style. Day 4: Casablanca- Marrakesh After a morning walk around the city, we took the train to Marrakesh. We were not able to buy the tickets online, so we stopped by the train station the day before and purchased 2nd class tickets for 132 MAD each (about 20 AUD). The train ride was comfortable, although there was no air-con and about half-way through the journey, the landscape changed dramatically and it suddenly became really hot. After all, the further south we go, the closer to the Sahara desert! Day 5: Marrakesh We spent the day getting lost in the old medina's little alleys (in fact, it is impossible NOT to get lost!) until it got too hot to be outside and then we chilled in our lovely air-conditioned riad (a traditional Moroccan house/hotel with a courtyard). It's only April and the temperature soared abo ve 30°C, so I can't imagine what Marrakesh would be like in the middle of summer. In the afternoon, I went to a Moroccan hammam bath house for a traditional body scrub and a massage. The body scrub is an old ritual meant to cleanse the body and the mind and consists of relaxing in a private tiled steam room (there is no actual bath) followed by vigorous scrubbing with eucalyptus black soap. I found it very hard to relax and the ritual wasn't exactly enjoyable, but I was amazed at the amount of dead skin that came off! Lucky I booked a massage afterwards, so I was finally able to relax! Marrakesh Day 6: Agafay Desert & Atlas Mountains On our last full day in Marrakesh, we decided to join a tour to explore the nearby Agafay desert and the town of Imlil in the Atlas mountains. It was nice to see a bit of countryside and also get out of the scorching hot Marrakesh. Imlil is a mountain town popular with local visitors as it offers clear fresh air and much more bearable temperatures than Marrakesh. Locals like to set up picnic tables near the river, or sit at the waterfall cafe- something I had never seen anywhere else! They were selling fresh orange juice and espresso coffee, powered by the waterfall itself! Imlil, in the Atlas mountains Day 7: depart Marrakesh We had a final walk through the medina this morning and indulged on a delicious avocado and dates smoothie and the traditional Moroccan mint tea. When it started getting too hot again, we retreated back to our riad, finished packing and headed to the airport to catch our flight. Although we only had one week in Morocco, I feel like we had good introduction to the country, seeing very diverse cities and landscapes. I had expected that travelling around Morocco would be a bit difficult (because of the language barrier), but it wasn't! It was easy to catch public transport and people were very friendly and always willing to help.

  • Gluten-free Flavours of Morocco

    I was worried about gluten-free food in Morocco, which has a primarily bread-based cuisine, but I was pleasantly surprised that there were always some delicious gluten-free options, even during Ramadan and Eid. Note: I did bring some gluten-free bread with me from Europe (and I also bought some in a Carrefour in Casablanca), so I didn't feel 'left out' whenever there was a dish that was basically gluten-free, but was served with bread. Most waiters in restaurants were not familiar with a gluten-free diet, but when I explained it to them, they were always willing to find an alternative. In the riad we stayed at in Marrakesh, they even made rice bread for me from scratch! This was our riad hotel breakfast in Chefchaouen, a typical Moroccan breakfast which consists of bread (no bread for me, but there was plenty of other food), an omelette, a fruit salad, olives, cheese and a delicious peanut butter dip (I used my own bread for this), served with orange juice and Moroccan mint tea (or coffee). Naturally gluten-free Moroccan dishes Tajine Probably the most popular dish, and one you can find virtually anywhere, even when limited selection of food is served during Ramadan and Eid, is Tajine. This is basically a stew (usually meat, chicken or veggie, and sometimes seafood) named after the clay pot in which it is cooked and served. It often comes with vegetables and potatoes, so it's a complete dish on its own, but served with bread (bring your own or ask for rice if you are like me and need your carbs;). Not all restaurants serve rice, but many do. Tangia This typical Marrakesh dish is also a stew, prepared and served differently, but equally delicious! Grilled chicken and meat Grilled skewers of chicken or meat (kefta- ground beef or lamb) are always gluten-free. Sausages may or may not be gluten free as they might contain wheat flour as a binder. These dishes are often served with a salad and rice, which is an added bonus. Other Gluten-free dishes Omelettes Shashuka Bessara (pureed bean soup) Salads Zaalouk (eggplant and tomato cooked salad) Bakoula Salad (cooked spinach) Market Food You can get many gluten-free products and dishes at the local markets. We went to the night markets on Jemaa el-Fnaa market and ate at one of the food stalls (two nights in a row; it was that good!). We also bought some olives, dates, fresh juice and nuts (all naturally gluten-free:). Things that are NOT gluten-free Bread (bring your own) Couscous Harira (a Ramadan soup, contains pasta) Pastilla (a meat pie) Moroccan Sweets and cookies Gluten-free Restaurants Chefchaouen: Bilmos This is the only restaurant I came across that makes their own gluten-free bread! They also offered gluten-free crepes (yummy!) Marrakesh: Falafel Terrace One of the few restaurants where the waiter was aware of GF options. Among other things, they had a delicious shashuka and falafel on the menu. A Note on Wine Did you know that Morocco produces its own wine? While we couldn't find any alcohol during Ramadan or the first couple of days of Eid al-Fitr, we came across a wine shop in Casablanca. It was closed on the first two days of Eid al-Fitr (the celebrations and public holidays that mark the end of Ramadan), but opened on the third day, so we purchased a bottle of Moroccan white wine (surprisingly quite good!). In Marrakesh, there are many bars, restaurants and hotels that serve alcohol, so we tried some more Moroccan wine, including their 'grey' wine (a very light style of rose, tasting more like pinot gris).

  • Gluten-free in Bolivia

    South America in general is by far my favourite continent for gluten-free travel! Tapioca, corn, potatoes and rice being the staple carbs make the life of a celiac traveller much easier than other parts of the world. Bolivia surprised me with a lot of naturally gluten-free and delicious food as well as gluten-free health foods and products easily available in La Paz- gluten-free paradise! Markets Most of the daily menu dishes are gluten-free, unless they are deep-fried ( empanizado ) or served with pasta ( fideos ). Also watch out for milanesa  (schnitzel). The entre is usually a soup and it can be made with potatoes, corn-based ( choclo) , rice-based (arroz ), or sopa de mani (peanut and potato soup)- all of these are naturally GF, just watch out for a soup with fideos (noodles). Here are some of the typical Bolivian dishes I had at local markets and restaurants: Sajta de Pollo at Mercado Lanza Coca Museum Manq'a fusion restaurant

  • Bolivia: La Paz 🇧🇴

    Bolivia is a country I have been wanting to visit for a long time and although nestled among seemingly similar neighbouring countries of Peru, Chile, Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil, it has a very unique feel to it unlike anywhere else I have been. With most of the country sitting at high altitude (La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3,640 m above sea level), its unique landscape, architecture and traditional outfits together with lovely people make for a wonderful place to visit. Despite being one of the poorer countries of Latin America, its cultural richness and hospitality offer a fantastic travel experience. In this blog, I would like to share some of the unique cultural aspects of Bolivia we came across during our first visit (yes, we will definitely be back for more!:) La Paz & El Alto With a population of a little over a million each, La Paz and the neighbouring El Alto make the second and third largest cities in Bolivia. There is a fantastic network of cable cars (Mi Teleferico) that serves as the city's public transport system and connects El Alto's neighbourhoods with the centre of La Paz. Although El Alto is overall cheaper, you will find an increasing number of luxury mansions, referred to as cholets . El Alto's Shamans On our first day in La Paz, we took the red cable car up to El Alto's 16 de Julio station to look for the local yatiris , traditional Aymara healers and fortune tellers. The closest English translation would be a 'shaman.' We didn't really know how to choose one, with so many huts one next to the other offering various services, from fortune telling, to healing to help with all kinds of issues (medical, business, travel, marriage, etc.) so I first walked up to one of the huts for a coca leaves reading (kind of like a tarot reading, but using coca leaves). I was charged 20 bolivianos (only to later realise that the standard fee is 10) and was told that everything will be fine, but there is some 'envy' from outsiders, so I need a limpia (a spiritual cleansing) to rid me of bad spirits. The sceptic in me was thinking that she is, of course, trying to upsell her services. In the meantime, Alfredo went to another yatiri  for his coca leaves reading and was also told that he needs a limpia . Still sceptical but curious, we then saw that some of the yatiris  had a line of people waiting outside. Intrigued, I thought that those must be the good ones (!) and hesitantly started queuing up. While sitting in the queue, I had one of those moments that felt like a very unique and authentic travel experience. I started talking to the lady next to me (feeling very grateful to be able to speak Spanish and thus have access to these kinds of experiences!). I asked her if she'd been there before, and she said that she comes whenever she needs some advice and that Maestra Gladys is very good (and therefore there is a line of people waiting for her services). Okay, so when it was our turn, we started with the coca leaves reading again, and this time it somehow seemed a bit more believable (see, reputation matters!). She said that there is good fortune in store for us, but there is some 'envy' (again), so a 'limpia' would be advisable. Alright then, we decided to just go with it (for 150 bolivianos). Maestra Gladys skilfully wrapped coca leaves in newspaper, adding a sprinkle of alcohol before neatly folding it into a parcel. She then placed these curious bundles on our bellies. Then, with a swift motion, she snapped a string into countless pieces above our heads... All this while, she managed to multitask effortlessly, answering phone calls giving advice to people all over Latin America. Apparently, each phone call is worth 10 bolivianos and her clients pay her when they come visit her every. now and then. Some of her reassuring advice over the phone included words like, "Don't worry, everything will work out. Just go there in person and, uh, sprinkle some urine on them." I didn't feel particularly 'cleansed' or anything, but then again, I am a little bit superstitious, so I was glad we did it! If anything, it was such a unique experience that gave us a sneak peak into the complex culture of local beliefs. After all, everyone needs some advice every now and then! Cholets Cholet= cholo (a term used to refer to the native Aymara people) + chalet. This unique Andean architectural style, started by a Bolivian architect, Freddy Mamani, has become popular among the newly rich in Bolivia as in the Aymara culture, it is a must to show your wealth (thus the over-the-top colours and lavish decorations). For a building to qualify to be considered a cholet, it needs to meet a few criteria: - have a residential house on top - an event party space available for rent - apartments for the family  - a business on the ground floor We joined a tour of cholets in El Alto, but you can see many just by walking around the neighbourhood. Truly unique architecture! Cholitas Wrestling

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